Look for a new updated format of our Webpage with all formulation guides including our new Sultry Passionate Brunette Formulation Guide right here in Pravana’s Hair Color Guru Section

Q. Danny,
Can I use your new BIOJEN 9 on color treated hair, relaxed hair, ethnic hair, males and females?

Curious,
Tatiana

A. Hi Titania,
BIOJEN 9 is completely safe on all hair types and all multi-cultural clients regardless of gender. Unlike other types of “For Thinning Hair” shampoo products BIOJEN 9 Daily Cleanse is a Sulfate-free gentle cleanser that will not cause dryness or remove even a pastel blonde tinted hair color.

Q. Danny,
When I apply level 6 Natural with 20 volume developer and process for 35 minutes on my (30% gray) natural dark blonde level 6 hair, it pulls warmth. Why?
Don’t Like Warm Tones,
Julia

A: Hi Julia
Here’s the “Cool Facts”:

• Your desired level is 6 Dark Blonde
• Your natural level is 6 Dark Blonde
• 20 volume developer is lifting your natural level and you do not want any lift

This is easily remedied by using 10 volume developer and adjusting your formula to:

• 1 oz. 6; .5 oz. 6.11; 2.25 oz. 10 volume developer
• This will give you a Blue/Green base, perfect for neutralizing a Red/Orange undertone at level 6
• Natural Tone 6 will cover your gray as the 6.11 controls any potential warmth

Q. Danny,
I have a 40+ year old client who is prematurely 100% gray or white. She would like to be a level 10 Beige Blonde with just a touch of Gold, but because she has never colored her hair before, she does not want to see a stark change. What’s your suggestion?

Cautious First Timer,
Sandra

A. Hi Sandra,
Here’s a “Perfectly Sheer” formulation, custom blended to absolutely delight and satisfy this fashionably smart client:

• Clarify with Pravana Clarifying Shampoo, rinse and towel dry
• Mix 1 oz. Silkdegrees Shine Treatment with 4 drops of Shine Serum
• Apply using a bowl/brush and then comb through for even distribution
• Cover with a plastic cap and process for 5-20 minutes (depending on hair condition) under a warm hooded dryer
• Thoroughly towel dry
• Apply 1oz. 10.02; .5 oz. 10.03; 2.25 oz. 10 volume developer beginning one half inch from scalp through to the ends
• Process 15 minutes and then apply the same formula to the scalp area
• Process for an additional 30-45 minutes, depending on the resistance of the gray hair

The results…. Sheer Pastel Beige/Gold Blonde, perfect for “First Time Color” on white hair

Q. Danny,
How can I get my Medium Blonde level 7 client with 40-50% gray hair to a cool Very Light level 9 Blonde with Beige undertones and no Gold? Her tinted color right now is level 9 but too Gold.

Gold Fighter,
Brenda

A. Hi Brenda,
I remember all too well struggling with this very same problem, but that was in the years BC… “Before ChromaSilk” Hair Color. See how easy this formula is now:

• Clarify with Pravana Clarifying Shampoo
• Rinse and thoroughly towel dry
• Mix and apply 1 oz. 9 Very Light Blonde Natural Tone; .5 oz. 8.22 Light Intense Beige Blonde; 2.25 oz. 20 volume developer
• Process for 35-45 minutes depending on the resistance of the gray hair
• To neutralize the Gold ends, use 1 oz. 10.02 Ultra Sheer Beige Blonde with 1.5 oz Zero Lift Developer for the last 5 - 10 minutes of the process time

Q. Danny,
I am new to Pravana ChromaSilk Hair Color. How do I get 100% gray coverage on almost all white hair? My store associate said to use the intense blondes. I’ve been using 1 oz. 7.22 Medium Intense Beige Blonde with 1.5 oz. 10 volume developer for 45 minutes. It looks awful. What’s the secret? Other stylists are using your color very successfully.

Frustrated Colorist,
Irma.

A. Hi Irma,
It’s no secret. It’s always best to call the hotline when you have hair color questions or challenges.

• On dominantly white or gray hair (75%+) you can achieve perfect 100% gray coverage by using the ChromaSilk Natural Tones as your primary base with 10 volume developer
• If you want to add accent colors to your base tone; for example: on natural level 5/6 Light Brown/Dark Blonde with 50% gray or less: use 1 oz. 7 Medium Blonde Natural Tone; .5 oz. 7.35 Medium Golden Mahogany Blonde; 2.25 oz. 20 volume developer to achieve a Medium Golden Mahogany Blonde
• If the gray percentage is dominant use a 10 volume developer

This Autumn and winter season the prediction for hair color and design appears to be drawn from three clothing fashion directions. Invert, Twist and Gather. Warm Blondes, Reds, Coppers, and cool Mahogany tones are the strongest influences for hair color.

Invert: Inverted shapes with wide shoulders, narrow waist. This look can be achieved with a long top gathered around the waist with a long color coordinated narrow scarf or belt and tights on your legs. Chances are you already have these items in your wardrobe.

The hair shape should be created with this in mind, giving a powerful asymmetric narrow but bold image. Color should be the lightest of blondes. For the really daring guest, try placing a Mahogany Violet, or Mahogany Red triangle into the fringe, base down. This will allude to a more narrow looking design.

Formulation Guide:

• Pre-lighten with Pravana Pure Light Power Lightener to the correct level for your toner (see the Pravana Pre-lightening Pigment Foundations Guide below)
• After removing the pre-lightener, towel dry and apply Silkdegrees Shine Treatment with the recommended drops of Shine Serum. (see the Pravana Silkdegrees Shine Treatment User Guide in the Product Portfolio on line)
• Apply, based on your client consultation, the preferred toner to thoroughly towel dried hair, mixed in the required ratio of color to developer (see the ChromaSilk User Guide in the Product Portfolio online)
• While processing the toner; in the fringe area, separate a triangular section of the pre-lightened non toned hair and apply one of the following formulations protected with foil
• For a deep Mahogany Violet, mix and apply .25 oz Silkdegrees Shine Treatment and 2 drops of Shine Serum; .25 oz. 4.3; .5 oz. 4.20; 1.5 oz. Zero Lift Developer.
• For a lighter Mahogany Violet substitute 4.3 with 6.3 and 4.20 with 5.7.
• For a medium Mahogany Red use the same formulation quantities substituting 4.3 with 7.3 and 4.20 with 7.5
• Process following directions in the ChromaSilk User Guide

Twist: Clothes that twist around the body, and create a twisting movement around the torso. Check out your local hip boutiques for tops.

The hair shape is layered using disconnected panels that move across the back around the head shape. Color enhances the shape with an ‘S’ shaped panel working from the top section and finishing in the nape area.

Formulation Guide

• On natural level 7 Medium Blonde or lighter using ChromaSilk Super Light Blondes mix 1 oz. 902; .25 oz 903; 1.25oz. 000 Lightening Booster; 5 oz. 30 or 40 volume developer.
• After removing the Super Light Blonde, towel dry and apply Silkdegrees Shine Treatment with the recommended drops of Shine Serum
• Section off the ‘S’ shaped panel and protect the hair on either side by coating it with Deep Hydrating Masque (DHM) and securely protecting the ‘Masque covered hair’ hair with foil
• Apply .25 oz. SDST & SS; .75 oz. 904; 2 oz. Zero Lift Developer and process for 15 minutes
• It is crucial when removing the toner on the ‘S’ shaped panel to ensure that no toner color is allowed to contact the Super Light Blonde hair. The DHM will help

Gather: For Autumn and winter gathered fabrics with pleats or asymmetric looks are likely to be a big trend.

This fashionable hair design is best suited for longer hair with subtle layers that have been created by elevating to no more than a 45% angle while cutting the hair. The on-purpose hair color technique is created by gathering hair into over-directed panels of asymmetric positions around the head. The hair colors chosen may be from Pravana ChromaSilk Golden, Copper, Intense Copper, Intense Mahogany, or Intense Red Tones.

• Apply your chosen colors, to the selected woven strands by alternating two complimentary tones.
• The hair color is applied using a tint brush with the bristles held horizontal to the floor and begins 2 – 3 inches from the base (scalp) and is then taken through to the ends.
• Without adding any more color to your brush, turn it vertically and spread the color towards the scalp area.
• The finished look is one that shows no demarcation line between the colored strands and the new growth area.
• Using this application technique permits you to select bold or subtle strands

Either of the three above techniques can be amplified by the use of intricate sectioning panels or a simple overlay of Silkdegrees Botanical Color.

Fergie, Katherine Heigle and Scarlet Johansson’s New Sultry Brunette Hue

Is your blonde tinted salon guest ready to join Katherine Heigl and return to a luscious sultry brunette hue? So classic and natural yet stunningly shiny when blended using Pravana ChromaSilk Hair Color with Chocolate/Caramel hues. This is sure to be a big hit this fall!

Begin by correcting any overly porous areas, creating healthy strong hair that will lock-in the new hair color. Mix Pravana Silkdegrees Shine Treatment (SDST) and Shine Serum (SS) in a bowl and apply with a tint-brush. For every ½ oz SDST required add 4 drops of SS depending on hair length. Comb through to ensure even distribution, cover with a plastic cap and process under a warm hooded dryer or other heat source for 5-20 minutes depending on hair condition.

Begin your hair color application by mixing Pravana ChromaSilk Hair Color Golden Tone 6.3 ½ oz; Natural Tone 6 ½ oz; Bronze Tone 6.34 ½ oz; with 2¼ oz. 10 volume Pravana Crème Developer. Apply this mixture ½ - ¾ inch off the scalp and process for 10 minutes. Apply same formulation to the scalp area and process an additional 20-30 minutes to create a shiny Light Warm Brown with a Chocolate/Caramel hue.
After removing hair color, let your salon guest be daring and try an overlay with Pravana Silkdegrees Botanical Semi-Permanent Color Shine. For a cool Amber/Gold Cinnamon twist: mix Chocolate with Copper or Honey. Cover with a plastic cap and process for 15-20 minutes at room temperature.

Use the preferred Pravana Design Product, lightly mist with Pravana Thermal Insulator and style using a warm blow drier and a round natural-bristle brush. Thermal iron if desired. Finish with a few drops of SS palmed over the hair for additional shine and sun protection.
The results: A beautiful warm brunette with an amber/gold cinnamon hue that looks sultry, shiny, healthy and gorgeous!

Check it out by Clicking the Link Below:
http://blog.pravana.com/?page_id=21

Q. How do I get a Vivids color out of my client’s hair?

A. Vivids colors once stained into pre-lightened hair are impervious to removal by bleach or even the Artificial Hair Color Extractor. It can be successfully colored over using ChromaSilk Natural Tones to match your client’s natural level. The client’s natural level must be level 7 or darker. Mix 1 oz. of the chosen level with 1.5 oz. Zero Lift Developer. Process 20-30 minutes.

On natural levels 7 or lighter some removal may be accomplished by using Pravana Clarifying Shampoo as a treatment. Work the shampoo up to a rich lather. Cover lathered hair with a plastic cap and process under a warm hooded dryer for 5-10 minutes. Repeat until you get an acceptable amount of color removal. Usually not all of the color will be removed.

Q. When I use Vivids Pink, Blue or Silver. The color fades quickly. Why and is it possible to overcome this?

A. Due to the need to pre-lighten to level 10 (Palest Yellow/White) for these three Vivids Colors, the hair is left in a highly porous condition. To overcome this porosity challenge and get greater color durability, mix 3⁄4 oz. Vivids Pink, Blue or Silver with 1⁄4 oz. Silkdegrees Shine Treatment (SDST) and 2 drops of Shine Serum (SS). Cover with a plastic cap and process under a warm hooded dryer for 20 minutes. This method of incorporating SDST & SS can be used very successfully with any Vivids Color.

Q. Is there a way to “seal” Vivids Colors to overcome “rub off” on clothing?

A. Because Vivids is a direct non-oxidative dye it is unstable. However, mixing it with SDST & SS as described above, or using SDST & SS after Vivids does significantly help to overcome the tendency of these types of dyes to rub off.

Note: Vivids Colors are very sensitive to Sulfate shampoos. Home maintenance with Pravana Sulfate-free Shampoos resolves this issue.

Q. How do I formulate your Coppers and Reds for mostly gray hair without too much brightness, hot roots, or having them look violet?

A. Basically you should have the brown/blonde portion of your formulation match the percentage of gray. For example if the hair is 50% gray; 50% of the formulation should be equal parts Natural and Golden Tone and the other 50% Copper or Red.

The purpose in balancing the Natural and Golden Tones is to prevent the Blue base in the Natural Tones from influencing the Copper or Red from looking Mahogany or Violet.

By applying the color off scalp first (for 15 minutes) before applying to the scalp area, will eliminate the possibility for hot roots. You may alternatively use more Natural and Golden Tones for your scalp application, but still apply to scalp area last and process after completing scalp application for either 35 (20 vol) or 40 minutes (30 vol).

Q. Can I use equal parts 902 and 000 with double 40 vol. on level 6/7 and get a Platinum Tone?

A. Although your formulation will create a very nice neutral beige Blonde on a level 7 and a gold beige on a level 6, the only way to create a true Platinum tone is by using Pure Light Power Lightener until the hair color level looks like the inside of a banana peel (almost white). This represents a true level 10 pre-lightened stage.

Once this stage of pre-lightening is achieved evenly from scalp to ends, apply Silkdegrees Shine Treatment with the appropriate amount of Shine Serum. Cover with a plastic cap and process under a warm hooded dryer for 15-20 minutes. This will give your toner greater durability by creating additional anchoring sites for the toner to hold on to. Rinse out the SDST & SS treatment, towel dry the hair and mix 1 oz. 902; 2 oz. Zero Lift Developer (ZLD) and apply from scalp to ends. Process for 15 minutes and remove. An alternative more pastel toner would be 1 oz. 10.07; 1.5 oz. ZLD.

To achieve that multi-toned Taylor Swift Blonde on natural level 6 or lighter:

• Alternate Foils with Pure Light Power Lightener and 10 vol developer and 20 vol. developer
• Foil with 1 oz. 902; ½ oz. 903 and 3 oz. 30 vol.
• Process 40 minutes
• Remove foils, shampoo and apply Silkdegrees Shine Treatment and appropriate drops of Shine Serum
• Process 15 minutes, rinse and towel dry thoroughly
• Apply the following glaze all over: 1¼ oz. 9; ¼ oz. 9.3; 2¼ oz. Zero Lift Developer and process 15 minutes

If your client’s hair color or toner is fading quickly the reason is most likely porosity or a lack of protein and/or moisture. The remedy is simple:

• Use Pravana Clarifying Shampoo, work up a rich lather, rinse and towel dry
• Apply the appropriate amounts of Silk Degrees Demi-Permanent Shine Treatment (SDST) and Shine Serum (SS) for your client’s hair length
• Use a bowl/brush technique to apply the SDST and SS, then comb through to ensure even distribution
• Cover with a plastic cap and process under a warm hooded dryer for 15-20 minutes then rinse out treatment completely
• Towel dry the hair thoroughly and apply your hair color formulation
• Process for maximum time as directed

The SDST & SS create additional anchoring sites and give superb longevity to any color or toner. This type of pre-color durability insurance should be done at least once per quarter. If your client is an active outdoor enthusiast, daily use of SS will act as an umbrella to protect her hair color against the sun’s damaging rays.

Of course no hair color formulation is complete without home maintenance with a Pravana Sulfate-free Shampoo and Conditioner.

The fastest and easiest corrective coloring when the color is too dark can be accomplished by using PRAVANA Artificial Hair Color Extractor. This rather unique product will not lighten or damage virgin hair color or previously pre-lightened or highlighted hair.

Following directions and observing these critical steps will ensure perfect results every time:

1. After the standard 20 minute process under a warm (not hot) dryer, rinse off the extractor, using the Pravana Clarifying Shampoo in the kit, work up a rich lather

2. Cover the lathered hair with a cap and process for 3 minutes at the shampoo bowl (no heat)

3. Rinse for a minimum of three minutes, shampoo again with the Clarifying Shampoo and rinse

4. Towel dry the hair and saturate all of it with 10 vol developer to test if oxidative dyes are still in the hair

5. Within 15-20 seconds if dyes are still present you will see a change  (usually darker) in the hair’s color, rinse off the developer and repeat the extraction process until the 10 vol. developer test indicates no color change

6. No color change varifies that all oxidative dyes have been extracted

7. You may choose to re-color or not. If re-coloring, use 2 levels lighter than desired on the extracted hair

You may extract 4 times in one day. Wait 24 hours before resuming any extracting to ensure no scalp irritation. Extracting very dark tint may require 6 or 7 extractions.

You must extract all oxidative dyes. You cannot stop extracting until all oxidative dyes are completely out of the hair. If not, the remaining dye will oxidize darker over time.

Danny,

Great to see you’ve initiated the Pravana blog! I know all your fans will enjoy interacting with you this way.

Thanks for all you do for Pravana!

Steven Goddard

Hello Everyone. We have just opened this weblog to offer our professional stylists updates and exciting information about PRAVANA. Please check back for new updates or if you are more familiar with blogging, add us to your favorite blog feeder: Subscribe to the Pravana Blog Feed.